Spring and Sardines:

by | Feb 13, 2024 | Uncategorized | 0 comments

Following a weekend where Brittany showed me it’s meteorological teeth, in the form of high winds and horizontal rain, I was pleasantly surprised by the view from my window on Monday. Spring seemed to have come early, 12th February resembling it’s March or even April equivalent.

This beautiful, if surprising weather was to accompany me west to the Atlantic coast and the pretty port of Douarnenez.

Sheltered from the full force of the Ocean by the bay of the same name, the port actually faces north. Looking out to sea, one can see the coast of the northern peninsula and the town of Crozon.

Douarnenez was once famous for sardines and mackerel which were abundant thereabouts. However due to the steady collapse of the fishing industry, the town has gone into a dignified retirement. This is mainly due to the influx of tourists and boat owners, whose possessions cram the mouth of the river like an expensive log-jam. Amongst these marine equivalent to Bentleys and Porsches, which gently sleep in the winter, lies evidence of the towns heritage.

Huge hulks of timber, the paint long ago stripped off by the salty air, lie dotted among the shiny new craft.

… lies evidence of the towns heritage.

I wandered up and down the quay, observing life going on and gazing up at the sun, which had a pleasant bit of warmth in it. One of the few bars open at this time of year was thriving in the welcome early spring. I sat and sipped a half of beer, while making notes for a yet unwritten chapter set in the town.

On my way home, I crossed the Monts d’Arrée, a range of hills reminiscent of Northumberland or the Scottish borders. Perched on top of one of these hills is a church, Mont St Michel de Brasparts. It is accessible by a walkway constructed of sleeper type timbers and rewards one with a view of the beautiful Parc Naturel Regional d’Amorique. This diverse area of countryside and coastline is one of the most spectacular in France.

Perched on top of one of these hills is a church,

My final stop was the small town of Huelgoat with its lake, watermill and collection of mysterious, massive stones. Some are as big as a house! There is also a cave where King Arthur is said to have hidden his treasure!

Some are as big as a house!

This place just keeps on giving. Speaking of which, here…


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